Look out at the sea from Yamashita Park in Yokohama. You'll see a massive cruise ship terminal, the high-rise skyline of Minato Mirai, and factory smokestacks in the distance. The most international port city in Japan.
But 170 years ago, there was nothing here. Yokohama was a tiny fishing-and-farming village of maybe 100 households.
On July 8, 1853, four warships led by U.S. Navy Commodore Matthew Perry appeared off the coast of Uraga, about 30 km south of Yokohama. The Japanese called the steam-powered vessels with their black hulls kurofune — Black Ships.
Those four warships pried open a door that had been shut for 250 years. Just 15 years later, in 1868, Japan had completely overhauled its political system — from the Edo Shogunate to the Meiji government — and became one of the fastest-modernizing nations in Asia.
Why did Japan close itself off? Why was it forced to reopen? And why, while so many countries across Asia and Africa were being colonized, did Japan manage to stay independent?
Why Japan Closed Its Doors
The Shogunate's Reasons for Shutting Out the World
Japan's isolation policy, known as sakoku, was established in stages by the Tokugawa Shogunate during the 1630s. The motivations were multiple.
The Christian threat. In the late 16th century, Portuguese and Spanish missionaries arrived in Japan and spread Christianity. At its peak, the number of Japanese Christians (Kirishitan) is believed to have reached several hundred thousand. The Shogunate saw this as a threat — not for religious reasons, but for political ones. The Christian idea that all people are equal before God clashed head-on with the rigid four-tier class system of warrior, farmer, artisan, and merchant. For believers, the highest authority was God, not the Shogun. Some Christian feudal lords (daimyo) had deep ties to European religious powers — Omura Sumitada, for example, donated the port of Nagasaki to the Jesuits.
Trade monopoly. During the Warring States period, feudal lords in western Japan had been getting rich through trade with Portugal and Spain — the so-called Nanban trade. For the Shogunate, the prospect of rival lords amassing wealth and weapons through independent trade was an existential risk to the whole feudal order. By funneling all trade through Nagasaki under Shogunate control, that economic threat was neutralized.
Security. The Shogunate was well aware of how the Philippines had been colonized by Spain. Toyotomi Hideyoshi had sent a letter to the Spanish Governor-General of the Philippines, and Tokugawa Ieyasu had directly negotiated with the Governor of Manila. The link between Christian missionary work and colonization was a concern shared among Japan's rulers.
The Shimabara Rebellion of 1637 was the tipping point. Around 30,000 Christian peasants near Nagasaki rose in revolt, and the Shogunate had to mobilize 120,000 troops to suppress them. After that, the Portuguese were expelled and Christianity was completely banned.
What "Isolation" Actually Looked Like
That said, sakoku didn't mean Japan was totally cut off from the world. Four windows remained open.
Dejima, Nagasaki: Trade with the Dutch. The Netherlands, being Protestant, had no interest in missionary work, so they were the exception
Tsushima Domain: Diplomacy and trade with the Joseon Dynasty (Korea)
Satsuma Domain: Indirect contact with China through the Ryukyu Kingdom (present-day Okinawa)
Matsumae Domain: Trade with the Ainu people of Hokkaido
What the Shogunate shut down was free civilian exchange with the outside world. Managed diplomatic and trade channels were maintained. Information wasn't completely blocked either — through the annual Oranda Fusetsugaki (Dutch Reports) submitted by the head of the Dutch trading post, the Shogunate received updates on events in Europe and around the world.
The Black Ships — Four Vessels That Changed Japan
Perry's Mission
When Perry arrived in Japan in 1853, he had roughly three objectives.
Whaling supply bases: The American whaling industry was booming, and ships chased whales across the North Pacific. They needed ports in Japan to resupply with water, food, and fuel
Protection of shipwrecked sailors: Guaranteeing humane treatment for American sailors who washed up on Japanese shores after being shipwrecked
A waypoint for China trade: The U.S. was expanding trade with China and wanted to use Japan as a stopover on the Pacific route
Perry backed his negotiations with military force, but he hadn't come to wage war. Still, the impact of the steam-powered ships was overwhelming. For a people who had only ever seen sailing vessels, black iron ships that moved without wind and against ocean currents were technology from another dimension.
Japan's Shock and Response
The Shogunate's reaction was split.
The pro-opening faction: Coolly assessed the power gap and argued for negotiating the best possible terms
The joi (expel the barbarians) faction: Wanted to drive the foreigners out by force
The Imperial Court: The Emperor and court nobles were broadly in favor of expulsion
In the end, the Shogunate signed the Treaty of Kanagawa with the U.S. in 1854, opening the ports of Shimoda and Hakodate. In 1858, a more far-reaching agreement — the Treaty of Amity and Commerce — was signed, opening five ports including Yokohama.
Here's the crucial point: these were unequal treaties. They included extraterritoriality (Americans who committed crimes in Japan would be tried under American law) and the loss of tariff autonomy (Japan couldn't set its own import duties). It took Japan roughly 50 years to revise these treaties — extraterritoriality wasn't abolished until 1899, and full tariff autonomy wasn't recovered until 1911.
The Bakumatsu — 15 Years in Which Japan Tore Itself Apart
From "Revere the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians" to "Revere the Emperor, Open the Country"
From Perry's arrival in 1853 to the Meiji Restoration of 1868 — just 15 years. In that span, Japan turned its political system upside down.
At first, the forces opposing the Shogunate rallied under the slogan sonno joi — "Revere the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians." But as the joi faction actually came into contact with Western military power, they were forced to change their minds.
Two incidents were the turning points.
The Anglo-Satsuma War (1863). The British fleet bombarded Kagoshima in retaliation for the killing of a British man by Satsuma samurai. Satsuma fought back, but learned firsthand the devastating gap in firepower.
The Bombardment of Shimonoseki (1863-64). Choshu Domain fired on foreign ships in the Straits of Shimonoseki. A combined fleet from Britain, France, the U.S., and the Netherlands struck back, and Choshu was crushed.
These two experiences made Satsuma and Choshu — the two domains that would later lead the Meiji Restoration — do a complete 180. Expelling the foreigners was impossible. To compete with the West, Japan first had to learn Western technology and institutions. To do that, the Shogunate had to go and a new government had to be built.
Sonno joi became sonno kaikoku — "Revere the Emperor, Open the Country." Know your enemy, learn from your enemy, then stand against your enemy.
Sakamoto Ryoma and the Satsuma-Choshu Alliance
Satsuma and Choshu despised each other. At the Kinmon Incident of 1864, Satsuma had been on the side that drove Choshu out of Kyoto. The man who brought these bitter rivals together was Sakamoto Ryoma.
Ryoma was a ronin (masterless samurai) from Tosa Domain (modern Kochi Prefecture) who brokered the Satsuma-Choshu Alliance in 1866. He remains one of the most beloved historical figures in Japan. Once Satsuma and Choshu joined forces, the military power to topple the Shogunate was in place.
The Return of Power and the Imperial Restoration
In 1867, the fifteenth Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, performed the Taisei Hokan — formally returning political authority to the Emperor. Yoshinobu's calculation was that even after stepping down as Shogun, the Tokugawa clan could preserve its political influence.
But Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi of Satsuma wouldn't allow that. In January 1868, the Decree of the Restoration of Imperial Rule was issued, establishing a new government centered on the Emperor. Yoshinobu resisted, and the Battle of Toba-Fushimi broke out, but the Shogunate forces lost. After the Boshin War, the new government controlled all of Japan by 1869.
So Why Didn't Japan Become a Colony?
Japan was forced to sign unequal treaties. Its military technology was vastly inferior. During the same period, China was reduced to semi-colonial status, India was under British rule, and nearly all of Southeast Asia was colonized. Japan was one of the few that kept its independence. The reason wasn't singular — it was a stack of conditions.
Start with the military. Japan had an armed ruling class. At the end of the Edo period, the samurai made up roughly 5–7% of the population — hundreds of thousands of men held samurai status, distributed across the country. After 250 years of peace, many had become bureaucrats with no combat experience, but they maintained martial training, and during the Bakumatsu period the domains rapidly reorganized their military forces. This was fundamentally different from the situation in India. Britain was able to colonize India because the Mughal Empire had fragmented into rival princely states that could be picked off one by one — and because the British recruited massive numbers of Indian soldiers (sepoys), effectively conquering India with Indians. That approach wouldn't work in Japan. Under the unified Tokugawa system, it would have been extremely difficult for a foreign power to peel off individual domains and turn them into proxy forces.
Geography mattered too. Japan is far from Europe. The nearest Western colonial outposts were in Southeast Asia and along the Chinese coast, still thousands of kilometers away. Sending a large army, maintaining supply lines, and sustaining an occupation would have been enormously expensive. In India's case, Britain secured control of the Indian Ocean sea lanes, which helped it maintain its hold. But building the same kind of control structure across the Sea of Japan and the Pacific to a remote island nation was a challenge of an entirely different order.
The Western powers also kept each other in check. During the Bakumatsu period, Britain backed Satsuma and Choshu while France backed the Shogunate. This balance of power effectively shielded Japan. Israelis familiar with the history of the Middle East might recall the late Ottoman Empire — the Great Powers carved it up, but their competing interests prevented any one nation from monopolizing the region. In Japan's case, the country modernized on its own before it could be carved up at all.
The speed of Japan's response was decisive. From Perry's arrival (1853) to the Meiji Restoration (1868): 15 years. From the Restoration to a modern conscript army: just a few more. This speed was decisive. The comparison is Qing China. China lost the Opium War (1839–42) and was forced into unequal treaties — the same starting point as Japan. But fundamental reform in China took 70 years. During that time, territories were sliced away, and the country slid into semi-colonial status. Japan's window of vulnerability was extremely short. Before the Western powers could seriously contemplate colonization, Japan had already remade itself.
Japan also used other countries' failures as a textbook. Japanese leaders knew what had happened to China in the Opium Wars, how Britain had taken India, what Spain had done to the Philippines. Even during the period of isolation, world news had trickled in through the Dutch at Dejima. The Bakumatsu activists were able to pivot from "expel the barbarians" to "learn from them" partly because they'd witnessed the military reality firsthand — but also because they already knew what happened to nations that failed to adapt.
And then there was timing. During the 1850s and 1860s — precisely when Japan was most vulnerable — the Western powers were busy with their own problems. Britain and France were entangled in the Crimean War (1853–56). Britain was fighting to suppress the Indian Mutiny (the Sepoy Rebellion of 1857). America was tearing itself apart in the Civil War (1861–65). In China, the Taiping Rebellion (1850–64) was draining Western attention and resources. Even if the powers had wanted to colonize Japan in earnest, they didn't have the bandwidth.
All of these conditions stacked up. Military capacity, geographic distance, great-power rivalry, the Western powers' own distractions, speed of response, and lessons learned from others' disasters. Remove any one of them, and Japan's history might have turned out very differently.
The Shinagawa Batteries — Another Trace of Forced Opening
Heading back from Yokohama to Tokyo, you'll find traces of Perry's arrival in Shinagawa. The "daiba" in Odaiba means "gun battery" — artificial islands the Shogunate hurriedly built in Edo Bay after the shock of Perry's appearance.
After Perry's visit in 1853, the Shogunate built six batteries at breakneck speed (the first three were completed in just eight months; the original plan called for eleven). They were designed by Egawa Hidetatsu, a magistrate from Nirayama in the Izu Peninsula. Today, the Third and Sixth Batteries survive, though the Sixth is off-limits. The Third is open to the public as a park.
Ironically, these batteries were never used. By the time Perry returned in 1854, the matter had already been settled through negotiation. The batteries stand as a monument to preparations for a battle that never happened.
Today's Odaiba is a tourist zone packed with shopping malls and entertainment complexes. The site of gun batteries turned into a commercial district. That transformation is, in its own way, another symbol of Japan's modernization.
Walking Yokohama — What to Know to Enjoy It 10x More
Yamashita Park and Yokohama Osanbashi Pier
The place to feel the history of Yokohama's port, which dates back to the opening in 1859. Yamashita Park itself was built on rubble from the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 — the park itself carries the history of disaster and recovery.
Yokohama Chinatown
After the port opened, a large number of Chinese merchants settled here, forming the largest Chinatown in Japan. Around 600 shops line the streets. A living symbol of the international city that the opening of Japan's ports created.
The Kannai Area (Former Foreign Settlement)
The district where foreign residents were permitted to live and conduct business after the port opened. The name Kannai literally means "inside the gate" — referring to the area inside the checkpoint that marked the foreign settlement. Western-style historical buildings still stand here.
Yokohama Archives of History (exhibits on Perry's arrival)
Former British Consulate (near the Yokohama Port Opening Memorial Hall)
Nihon Odori (Japan's first Western-style boulevard)
Kurihama — Where Perry First Landed
Further south from Yokohama, in Kurihama, stands a monument to Perry's landing. This is where Perry first set foot on Japanese soil in 1853. The inscription on the monument is based on Perry's own words. About 50 minutes from Yokohama by Keikyu Line.
Closing — On Closing and Opening
250 years of isolation nurtured a distinctive culture and society in Japan. Ukiyo-e, kabuki, rakugo, washoku — many icons of Japanese culture reached maturity during the Edo period. By restricting contact with the outside, what grew inside became concentrated.
At the same time, isolation cut Japan off from the world's technological advances. The Industrial Revolution happened without Japan's knowledge, then suddenly appeared on its doorstep in the form of steamships and cannons.
Was it better to have been closed or open? There's no simple answer. But one thing can be said: Japan made both decisions — to close and to open — on its own terms. Isolation began as a Shogunate policy decision, and opening was carried out by the Japanese themselves (with external pressure, yes, but it was their choice). Japan was not colonized and forced open.
That fact — that the Japanese chose it themselves — is what made the rapid modernization after the Meiji Restoration possible. Because the change was self-chosen rather than imposed by others, the Japanese could embrace it as their own.
Stand at Yokohama's port and look out at the sea. You can imagine the black ships that appeared here 170 years ago. Those four vessels changed the relationship between Japan and the world forever.
Practical Information for Yokohama and Shinagawa
Yokohama Port Area (Yamashita Park, Chinatown, Kannai)
Admission: Free (individual facilities may charge separately)
Time needed: 3-4 hours for Chinatown + Yamashita Park + Kannai
Access: About 5 minutes from Yokohama Station by Minato Mirai Line (get off at Motomachi-Chukagai Station). About 25 minutes from Tokyo Station by JR Tokaido Line (transfer at Yokohama Station)
Yokohama Archives of History
Admission: 200 yen (adults), 100 yen (elementary/middle school students; free on Saturdays for elementary through high school students)
Hours: 9:30-17:00 (last entry 16:30)
Closed: Mondays (Tuesday if Monday is a holiday), year-end/New Year holidays
Exhibits on Perry's arrival and the transformation of Yokohama after port opening
Shinagawa / Odaiba (Daiba Park)
Admission: Free, open 24 hours
Access: 10-minute walk from Odaiba-Kaihinkoen Station on the Yurikamome Line
The stone walls of the batteries remain, giving a tangible sense of the Bakumatsu defense effort
Kurihama Perry Memorial Museum
Admission: Free
Hours: 9:00-16:30
Closed: Mondays (Tuesday if Monday is a holiday), year-end/New Year holidays
Access: About 10 minutes by bus from Keikyu Kurihama Station on the Keikyu Line
Perry landing monument and exhibits on Perry
Nearby Recommendations
Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse (Meiji-era customs warehouses converted into a shopping complex)
Cup Noodles Museum (Yokohama Minato Mirai; a celebration of Japanese food innovation)
Sankeien Garden (a Japanese garden in Yokohama where a Meiji-era industrialist relocated historic buildings from across the country)
▶ Other articles in this series:
The Void at the Heart of Tokyo — Why a powerless Emperor has lasted 2,600 years. The Imperial Palace and the foundation of Japanese history
The Shogun Who Became a God — Why was Tokugawa Ieyasu enshrined as a deity after death? Nikko Toshogu and the man who built 260 years of peace
The Foot Soldier's Son Who Conquered Japan — Toyotomi Hideyoshi. From the lowest rank to supreme ruler. The greatest upset in Japanese history, carved into Osaka Castle
We strive for historical accuracy in this article, but the author is not a professional historian and some details may be inaccurate. Practical information such as admission fees and opening hours is subject to change — please check official websites for the latest details before visiting.